Replacing a headphone audio jack

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Replacing a headphone audio jack

Postby marks on Tue Sep 28, 2010 1:29 am

Seems somewhat straightfoward, however I've never done it before - has anyone else? The only problem seems to be that the cable is braided nylon cord on the outside, not sure what the insulation is like, the headset is a SteelSeries 5Hv2 if anyone is curious. Any tips?
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Re: Replacing a headphone audio jack

Postby YokaI on Tue Sep 28, 2010 5:57 am

It shouldn't be too hard to solder the two cables together. Since it has a mic, you need to be able to distinguish what is the mic cable and what is the audio cable. Do you have a picture of the damage? Or are you replacing it purely for different reasons?
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Re: Replacing a headphone audio jack

Postby marks on Tue Sep 28, 2010 12:36 pm

The wire seems to have come loose from the connection on the inside of the jack, the audio cuts in and out when you wiggle the wire around the top of the jack. That's why I'm replacing, no visible damage on the outside.
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Re: Replacing a headphone audio jack

Postby Ich 666 on Tue Sep 28, 2010 12:58 pm

Lol actually i have the same problem atm with my Razer Piranha or how the thing is called. But since i already taped one of the speaker things because it fell off im gonna buy a new headset anyways. Any suggestions?
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Re: Replacing a headphone audio jack

Postby Unreal_Me on Tue Sep 28, 2010 8:45 pm

Corsair's new one is pretty amazing if you're fine with it having it's own USB audio card. I'm looking for a 4.1 headset that goes straight to analog/digital output


But yeah, just be careful with the multi-threaded wire. I doubt your headset will like it if some stray strands are touching
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Re: Replacing a headphone audio jack

Postby Terr on Tue Sep 28, 2010 9:17 pm

If we're talking about the 3.5mm plug, then it should be extremely straightforward on an electrical level. You'll still want a multimeter to make sure you're not swapping around the common/left/right wires when doing your soldering. (I'm assuming you have a 3.5mm plug with a length of wire on it that's being scavenged from somewhere.)

The tricky part will be structural: What stresses will happen on your soldering work? Consider shrink-wrap tubing, as well as some way to avoid putting any yanking strain on the join. (Like a knot leaving the join on a slack spot.)

It's the 3.5mm sockets where things get a little dicier, particularly with the varieties which either do auto-switching from another circuit or else have a softer "is something plugged in" switch line as part of the mechanism.
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